"Ralph Lauren ought to be a pretty reasonable barometer of menswear's reaction to reality. For Fall, he went back to his roots, true, but he wasn't playing safe. Well, maybe just a little bit with Polo, where what I've come to think of as the Greenwich Village group (trust fund artist/boho) was nowhere in evidence. Instead, there was a navy blazer paired with gray flannels, a yellow cabled cashmere cardie, and a banker-striped shirt that was quintessential Bedford, N.Y. One group was actually called Bedford Estate: Dusty pink cords and an authentic-looking Fair Isle gave the prep some punch. Another, the thirties/collegiate-influenced Rivalry Field, spotlit Lauren's innately cinematic flair for vintage, particularly with a red leather varsity jacket.
With Black Label, Lauren consolidated the monochrome urban mood that is this range's signature, motocross leathers and all. Special Agent was marked by the metallic pewter tone of a parka, and the Monza group was based on a car interior (sleeves had "podding" details—you learn something every day). But it's with Purple Label, his top line, that Lauren pulled off his best "What, me worry?" performance. Still the trim Savile Row silhouette with a pop of color in the shirts—and a fresh new luxe in a cashmere hoodie paired with a jacket in a silvery herringbone—but there was also a little devil in the details: a silk tie with a motif of topper-sporting skulls, a shirt with horizontal stripes, a twinset of cabled sweater and cardigan.
— Tim Blanks"